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Island Tripping....

Tanna Island -  Click a photo to enlarge
Mt Yasur Volcano and Kastom Villages...

 

 

 

 

 

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Above: Map of Vanuatu.                   Click to enlarge

 

During May 2001, we headed off as a family on our first visit to one of the other islands of Vanuatu.  Our destination was Tanna Island, about 45 minutes flight south of Efate.  Geoff had been sent to a PWD meeting at Lenakel, which coincided with the boys' school holidays.  So we took the opportunity to, visit Mt Yasur, the world's most accessible volcano, and catch a glimpse of the more traditional Ni-Vanuatu way of life as can only be seen on the outer Islands

Highlights of the trip:

bulletYakel Kastom Village
bulletFriendly Bungalows
bulletLownow Kastom Village
bulletMt Yasur Volcano

The flight down was in a Twin Otter, which was very full, with children sitting on parent's laps, and chickens, fruit, vegetables and woven mats crammed in with the luggage.  Lenakel is located on the West Coast of Tanna, so while Geoff was busy in his meeting, the boys and I visited a nearby Kastom Village located in the mountainous centre of the island.

 

Yakel Kastom Village

boysyakel.JPG (43277 bytes) Click here to refer to map of Tanna

The people in Yakel still live in the traditional Ni-Vanuatu way.  Houses are constructed from local products.  European clothes are only worn when visiting other centres and children are not allowed to attend school in the hope that they won't be tempted away from the kastom lifestyle.  Here the boys are pictured outside a 'leaf house' used by men from nearby villages when visiting the nakamel (meeting area) to share kava.

 

boysnpigs.JPG (46837 bytes) If you ask the boys what impressed them most about the village, it won't be the kastom dancing, the artefacts, or the houses.  Rather they spent most of their time trying to count the 57 pigs they saw.  Pigs are a valuable commodity in Vanuatu and there were pigs everywhere.  They also liked the chickens and wanted to take home the kitten that Simon is holding in the previous photo.
oldwoman.JPG (37113 bytes) A 'Bubu' or Grandma with some of the village children.  The youngster standing at her side didn't appear that happy to see us and spent a lot of the time hiding behind one of the houses and crying.  Tanna has over a dozen different languages and as the people of Yakel tend to stay within the village area, Bislama was not familiar with them.  However with lots of smiles and hand signals we were able to get permission for photos like this.
 

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Although we were the only three visitors on this day we were entertained with a demonstration of the village's kastom dancing and the ladies brought out carvings and weavings for us to buy.  The boys each selected a carved wooden fish from the items that this lady had made.

                            

Friendly Bungalows

bungalows.JPG (45795 bytes) Click here to refer to map of Tanna

We spent three nights at Friendly Bungalows on the East Coast, about 6kms away from Mt Yasur.  As you can see from the picture the accommodation had real character.  We enjoyed sitting on the balcony or rocking in the hammock as we watched the waves roll onto the black sand beach, only a matter of metres away.  The food was local produce cooked with French style.  Our first night there we were each served half a lobster. (Even the boys).

canoe2.JPG (21535 bytes) A village was located close by and the boys were taken for a ride up and down the beach on an outrigger canoe
simonhorse.JPG (24454 bytes) While Simon was taken bare-back riding on a village horse, Jeremy and Geoff began a sand bombing competition.  The local children were quick to join in the game.
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Here the kids are all lined up ready to throw their bombs at the targets. 

 

Lownow Kastom Village

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Click here to refer to map of Tanna

On our way to see the volcano we visited Lownow Village.  Once again, even though our family were the only visitors, the villagers dressed in their kastom clothes and proudly performed several dances for us under the shade of a huge banyan tree.  In contrast to the natural fibres worn at Yakel, here colourful dyed grass skirts, lavalavas, feathers, tinsel and face paint were in abundance.

After the dances were finished everyone lined up to shake our hands and then posed for some photos.  We were able to show them what we were taking on our digital and video cameras and were soon surrounded by a crowd of excited children trying to see themselves in the images.

 

Mt Yasur Volcano

ashplains.JPG (23817 bytes) Click here to refer to map of Tanna

As you can see from the photo at left, The ash plains at the base of Mt Yasur are devoid of any vegetation at the base of Mt Yasur.  When Yasur is very active, lava and rocks are thrown as far as these plains and visitors are not allowed in the vicinity.  The grey mound is the actual volcano.  We drove around and approached the crater from the other side, where the road ended a few hundred metres below the summit.

simoncrater.JPG (22821 bytes) The climb to the top was very steep and we scrambled over ash and past large boulders which had previously been hurled form the crater.  These were a constant reminder of how dangerous Yasur can be.  Once we reached the top we were rewarded with a great view of the crater and were soon scared by a loud bang, which resulted in rocks and lava being thrown into the air.  Fortunately the volcano was very quiet on our visit and the lava landed nowhere near where we were standing.
crater1.JPG (25823 bytes) At first you may think you are looking into the interior of an open cut mine, but this view shows some of the inactive vents.  The one on the left is beginning to fill with water, which as it seeps downwards through the layers of rock could make a new path way for an eruption of lava from below.
crater3.JPG (24203 bytes) Previously seven vents were active, but now only one remains open to release the pressure building up underground.  Scientists are predicting a major eruption in the future and last year they advised the relocation of any villages situated in close proximity to the volcano.  However the people refused to budge from their homelands.
crater2.JPG (22836 bytes) A closer view of the open vent.  Very little steam or smoke rose from it during our visit but on the day we drove back to the airport large plumes of smoke billowed from the top of Yasur.  From the rim of the crater the lava below was not visible but when rocks and lava were flung upwards, accompanied by a whoosh of air, they rose several hundred metres into the air before plunging back into the hole.  Some pieces fell onto the side of the vent and glowed red hot for some time afterwards.
lava.JPG (8069 bytes) As night descended the lava glowed brightly against the darkness of the night sky.  We stayed for another half hour, to see the fireworks at their best, before returning by torchlight to the truck.
Carvings from Tanna.jpg (18380 bytes) Our visit to Tanna and particularly Mt Yasur was an incredible experience that we will long remember.  We would recommend that if you manage a trip to Vanuatu and can afford to spend a couple of days in Tanna, you won't regret it.  Life on the islands is very different from life in Port Vila.  Besides, its not everybody that has the opportunity to visit a live volcano and stand in awe of the power of God's creation.
Carved figurines from Yakel Village

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